20 Ways to Add Volume to Fine, Flat Hair, According to Stylists

Close up of Hailey Bieber with a short, wispy, blunt bob haircut

@haileybieber

There are plenty of pros to having fine or thin hair (blowouts that take less time than an episode of a sitcom, not least among them). But if you're looking to achieve big sexy hair—or even medium sexy hair—thin strands can feel like an obstacle.

Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to boost fine, flat hair or to create the illusion of more robust tresses. We asked pro hairstylists Min Kim and Justine Marjan for their best tips and tricks for doing just that (and added a few others we've learned over the years). Read on for 20 ways to add volume to fine, flat strands.

Meet the Expert

  • Min Kim is a professional hairstylist, celebrity colorist, and L’Oréal Professionnel global ambassador.
  • Justine Marjan is a celebrity hairstylist and Great Lengths ambassador.
01 of 20

Cut Your Hair

The longer thin, fine hair gets, the flatter it lays—but the shorter it is, the more body it'll have. "The best haircuts for flat, fine hair are usually shorter styles that add volume and movement," says Kim.

Marjan suggests blunt short cuts ("The hair can support more volume with this length," she says), while Kim advises generally keeping things above the collarbone: "Pixie cuts, bobs, one-length haircuts with internal texture, or layered hairstyles can create the illusion of thicker hair and provide a fuller look," she says.

02 of 20

Approach Length Carefully

Kim recommends avoiding "hairstyles that are too long or lack shape" or don't contour your face. "These can weigh down fine hair, making it appear even flatter and lacking volume."

But if you're committed to the inches, there's a way to make it work. "Generally, long hair should be avoided as the ends can look sparse," says Marjan. But with extensions or keratin tips, "long hair is definitely achievable for flat, fine hair," she says.

03 of 20

Get Creative With Extensions

You may read extensions and immediately think of Lady Godiva-worthy lengths, but Marjan actually recommends "adding in a few Great Lengths Tape-In Extensions to a short cut with fine hair, to give a little more of a defined line to the blunt finish and to add more density."

Whether short or long, Marjan recommends finding a pro for your installation, sharing pictures of what you like (and what you don't), and considering your lifestyle since extensions require maintenance. "With this in mind, your stylist should be able to guide you in creating a custom hair extension application that works with your unique hair type and features," she says.

04 of 20

Be Strategic With Layers

To layer, or not to layer—that is the question (for those with fine strands). While conventional knowledge has long held that slight strands should avoid them, our experts say layers can be a solid move—but err on the conservative side.

"Layers can be a great option for flat, fine hair," says Kim. "Strategic layering adds texture, depth, and movement to the hair, making it look fuller. However, it's important to avoid excessive layering. [This] can lead to thinning and further flatten the hair." Marjan concurs: "I suggest avoiding overly layered haircuts as there doesn't tend to be enough density to support the layers," she says. "Instead, opt for subtle face framing and a blunt finish through the back."

05 of 20

Try Highlights or Lowlights...

Some hair color techniques can also help you pump up the volume; call it an optical illusion. "Highlights or lowlights can add dimension and texture and create the illusion of thicker hair for those with fine hair," says Kim.

06 of 20

... Or Consider Balayage

Similarly, balayage techniques are also worth trying out, as they can "provide a natural-looking blend and give the appearance of fuller locks," according to Kim.

07 of 20

Opt for Volumizing Shampoos and Conditioners

This one might seem a bit obvious, but if you have fine, flat hair, shampoos and conditioners formulated for volumizing and thickening are your best friends. "Look for volumizing or thickening shampoos and conditioners, as well as styling products that are lightweight and won't weigh down the hair," Kim tells us.

08 of 20

Stay Away From Moisturizing Formulas

We've all been in a pinch and had to use whatever shampoo or conditioner was in the shower that day. But if it's a product formulated to moisturize thicker or coarser hair, it probably isn't suitable for your strands. "Avoid heavy, moisturizing formulas, as they can make the hair appear greasy and flat," says Kim.

09 of 20

Shampoo and Condition the Right Way

If your hair is fine or thin, you should probably suds up about every other day, "as oil and debris will weigh down the hair and make it look flat and greasy," trichologist Michelle Blaisure told us. And when it comes to the conditioner, avoid your scalp and keep the product to the ends of your hair.

10 of 20

Invest in the Correct Styling Products

What you add to your hair outside the shower matters, too. "For a volume boost, people with fine, flat hair should seek out lightweight mousses, root-lifting sprays, or volumizing sprays," Kim tells us. "These products can add texture, lift, and hold without weighing down the hair."

11 of 20

Revisit Mousse

Speaking of mousse: If you just heard the crunch of '90s hair when you read the word, know that those days are over. "Gone are the days of mousse being stiff and drying," celebrity hairstylist Tommy Buckett told us. "The new wave of mousse products can fight humidity, give hair shine and definition, and even provide heat defense." 

"Mousse application can be done on towel-dried hair or when the moisture has been blown out of the hair," Kim previously shared. "At what stage mousse can be applied depends on the desired result, length of hair, current quality/health of the hair, and the look you're going for."

12 of 20

Consider Air Drying

"Air drying is generally a good option for fine, flat hair to prevent excessive heat damage and maintain natural texture," says Kim. When air drying, trichologist Rochelle Hunter Moseley recommends using less product and keeping it away from the roots to avoid weighing down your hair.

13 of 20

Create Body With a Salt Spray

Sea salt spray is a great way to bring out your natural texture when air drying. "Salt sprays can provide texture and create a beachy, tousled look for fine, flat hair," explains Kim. "They add volume and texture to the hair, making styling easier and giving the appearance of thicker strands." Don't have one on hand? Whip up one at home with this recipe.

14 of 20

Blow-Dry for a Sleeker Appearance...

That said, blow-drying is a better option if you're looking for sleeker results. "I always think blow drying will give more of a polished finish to the hair, especially because you can work in styling products which can help plump up hair strands," says Marjan.

15 of 20

... and a Volume Boost

When blow-drying with volume as the goal, your techniques and tools will be crucial. "If you're aiming for more volume and lift, blow-drying with a round brush can help create a fuller appearance," says Kim.

In terms of product, Marjan loves "the ghd Helios Dryer ($279) and a Mason Pearson brush for short, blunt cuts, and the ghd Duet Style ($400) for sleek, polished results." She's also a fan of two products we've already mentioned: "I love a sea salt spray to give a little support to the hair and a lightweight mousse at the roots, like Tresemme Extra Hold Mousse ($8)," she says.

16 of 20

Make Use of Hot Rollers

If you're looking for a Farrah Fawcett moment, rollers are also an option. "I recommend using hot rollers on fine hair to set the shape and create lasting volume, as well as velcro rollers because they provide a gentle grip without the need for additional pins or clips," says Kim. "Both roller options can add body, texture, and definition to fine hair types."

17 of 20

Get Familiar With Dry Shampoo

Today's dry shampoos are miracle workers for adding volume to hair that's too slick, too soft, or too oily. Just spritz or sprinkle dry shampoo along your hairline, let it dry, then brush it out. Not only does it buy you a day or two between washings, but it also soaks up oils and adds body.

18 of 20

Rinse With Apple Cider Vinegar

If you use hairspray, styling gel, or mousse regularly, your hair might experience some product build-up. Product build-up poses a unique problem for fine hair because it weighs down strands that already lack body. To banish it, try an apple cider vinegar rinse every other week. The vinegar can help break down residue and add body.

19 of 20

Tease For a Boost

A (conservative) teasing moment is also a great way to pump up your volume. "Teasing can add volume to fine hair, but it should be done sparingly to avoid damage," says Kim. "Use a fine-tooth comb and gently backcomb the hair at the roots, focusing on specific areas where the extra lift is desired. Remember to use hairspray to set the teased sections in place."

20 of 20

Consider Your Styling Options

If you're reading this article looking for an instant plump-up, you have options that don't require a blow dryer or shears. Spritz some texturizing spray and pull your hair into a bun, add height with a side part, or whip up two French braids for a quick flat hair fix.

Related Stories