No one likes wrinkles, which are caused when collagen breaks down deep in your dermis, far below the skin's top layer. Wrinkles are caused by the natural aging process, sun damage and the attack of free radicals on the skin. How wrinkly you'll be is largely determined by genetics. If your mother has or had wrinkles, you likely will, too.
But you can prevent wrinkles and reduce the signs of fine lines and some wrinkles without going under the knife by sticking to a 2-fold process: You need to stimulate collagen production while keeping free radicals such as the sun, stress and pollution from causing more damage. There are 5 options currently produced to reduce the signs of fine lines and wrinkles.
Sunscreen
Sun damage is the No. 1 cause of wrinkles. Wonder what your skin would look like if it was never exposed to the sun? Look at your bottom. Wrinkle-free, eh?A good rule of thumb when it comes to wearing sunscreen: If it's daylight outside, you need sunscreen, no matter how cloudy it is. Dr. Fredric Brandt, dermatologist to the stars, suggests using a "two-finger scoop" of sunscreen daily to the face and neck (never forget your neck when it comes to an anti-aging regimen).
Also, don't forget the top of your hands. Dermatologists report seeing women with young faces and old hands all the time.
See my list of The Best Sunscreens.
Retinoid Creams or Gels
I've done a ton of research on anti-aging products and what I've found is that dermatologists agree on one thing: The only anti-ager on the market that has proven again and again to reduce fine lines and wrinkles are retinoids (think Retin-A and Renova)."I never recommend any of the other expensive products out there claiming to do this," says Dermatologist Maryann Mikhail of Spring Street Dermatology in NYC.
Used nightly (or every other night), vitamin A creams stimulate collagen renewal and prevent skin cells from breaking down. Women in their 20s and early 30s can use these to keep fine lines from turning into deeper furrows. I've been using Retin-A on my skin for years and my skin has changed dramatically for the better. The key to retinoids is to not give up when your skin shows its first signs of redness and peeling.
See How to Use Retin-A & Other Retinoids Safely.
Alpha-hydroxy Acids or Microdermabrasion
If you're in your 30s or 40s and worried about wrinkles you might try exfoliating once a week with a alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) or a microdermabrasion kit. Don't use both and be careful not to over-exfoliate. Chemical exfoliators (the AHAs) work great on oily or combination skin, while the physical scrubs (microdermabrasion) are great for very sensitive skin (make sure it's in a creamy base).AHA's are glycolic or lactic acid formulated to increase collagen in sun-damaged skin. They are also known to reduce pore size, redness, blotchiness and fine lines.
See my list of the Best Facial Scrubs and Peels.
Antioxidants
Free radicals -- the unstable oxygen molecules produced by pollution, stress and sun -- are a skincare nightmare. They attack healthy skin cells and cause collagen breakdown, all of which lead to wrinkles.Fight free radicals with antioxidants like green tea, vitamins C and E, and coenzyme Q10 which all work together to neutralize free radicals. A cocktail of these antioxidants are like a multi-vitamin for skin, according to dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross.
Use antioxidants both orally and topically. In Elle Magazine, dermatologist Leslie Baumann, MD, swears by Heliocare vitamins. Topically, antioxidants are great for bolstering UV protection. Apply an antioxidant serum containing vitamins C or E, Co-Q, alpha-lipoic acid, grean or white tea, pomegranate or idebenone under your sunscreen (see products below). The antioxidants will fight those free radicals the sun generates.
The most popular antioxidant on the market right now is Prevage.
Eye Creams
The area around the eyes shows signs of aging first, typically starting in one's 30s. The skin around eyes is extra-thin and prone to developing under-eye bags, crow's feet and dark circles.To battle crow's feet you'll want to use a retinoid wrinkle reducer that hydrates. I like MD Forte Skin Rejuvenation Eye Cream. Another great option is Estee Lauder Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch. See How to Conceal Crow's Feet for more great tips.
To fight bags under the eyes, a skin-tightener with hyaluronic acid or retinol like
Chanel Precision Eye Lift works great. I've also read great things about Mario Badescu Cellufirm Drops. But keep in mind that most doctors agree the only way to get rid of under-eye bags is to undergo surgery.
Want to rid eyes of dark circles? You need a vitamin K-based eye product like Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue. Another good option is that Olay Regenerist Eye Serum, which contains pentapeptides to thicken skin. By the way, those undereye circles are not caused by lack of sleep. According to Davide J. Leffell, MD, professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine, dark undereye circles are caused by genetics and won't change with more or less sleep.
See my full list of the Best Eye Creams.
Some fun facts on wrinkles from the April 2006 edition of Allure:
- In 1889, Margaret Kroesen created Frownies, an adhesive patch that held skin taut, smoothing out wrinkles.
- 1920, the year Coco Chanel made suntans fashionable after her return from a sun-filled vacation on a yacht.
- 1982, the year Chanel launched its first anti-wrinkle cream with sunscreen.
- 1988, the year the FDA warned about the indiscriminate use of Retin-A, an acne drug, to treat wrinkles.
- 1995, the year the FDA approved tretinoic acid, the main ingredient in Retin-A, for the purpose of fighting wrinkles.
