How to Exfoliate Your Lips Like a Dermatologist

Dry, flaky lips are practically inevitable. "Almost all of us ​deal with dried or chapped lips at some point due to lifestyle or during the ​cycle of ​seasons due to the environment," says board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD.

While we can't change the physical environment (and sometimes lifestyle changes are easier said than done), we can conquer dry, flaky lips through the power of proper exfoliation. Most of us already love exfoliation for clean, smooth skin that glows, so it's probably no surprise that it can do the same for lips. Ahead, with the help of Shamban and board-certified dermatologist Ife J. Rodney, MD, we detail our favorite products and DIY methods for removing dry skin from the lips through exfoliation.

Why We Need to Exfoliate Our Lips

In our quest to transform dry lips, it helps to know what's actually causing the flakiness. Rodney reiterates that, unlike on our faces, our lips don't contain sebum-releasing oil glands that keep the skin soft and moisturized. "When the environment is cold and dry (think: winter months), the lips are more likely to become cracked. Extremely hot or windy conditions can also trigger chapped lips," she explains, adding that licking the lips can also be the source of flakiness. "While the saliva temporarily appears to renew moisture, frequent lip licking actually worsens the dryness."

"Daily, there is a good amount of TEWL [transepidermal water loss] in the lips whereby the water in our cells passively evaporates, ​​so they can get literally dry from the inside out and outside in," adds Shamban. "The fact that the skin of the lips [a stratified squamous epithelium] is like a mucosa without the same protection or barrier that the rest of our epidermis has makes them naturally prone to drying out. [This] causes rough texture and contributes to peeling or flaking. ​Then add in things like sunburn, medical conditions (allergies, thyroid disorder, some autoimmune disorders), or a reaction to a medication. A vitamin deficiency (iron, vitamin B), smoking, gum, hot beverages, picking, and spicy foods can all contribute to dehydration and peeling skin, too."

Benefits of Lip Exfoliation

The main benefit of exfoliating your lips is removing dead skin cells. "Exfoliating the lips reveals fresh, smooth skin beneath," says Rodney. "An added benefit is that lipstick can be applied evenly, and the lips immediately look plumper." It can also temporarily increase blood flow for plumper-looking lips. Finally, Rodney notes that exfoliation can help improve discoloration and dark spots on the lips. "The discolored surface cells slough off and are replaced by new, even-toned skin," she says.

Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliants

There are two types of exfoliants: chemical and physical. Chemical exfoliation uses acids like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs), or even fruit or flower acids and enzymes that catalyze the shedding of the top dermal layer. Physical exfoliating is a more old-school approach where rough or granular textures buff and polish the skin.

"Chemical exfoliants do not involve any rubbing of the skin, and they are not composed of granular particles that can be abrasive, so they can be gentler and safer than most physical exfoliants. Enzymes or acids in chemical exfoliants also can penetrate the skin for a deeper result," explains Shamban. "Physical exfoliants are readily available and cost-effective. They are very effective for removing dead skin. However, they are not always the most gentle."

How to Exfoliate Your Lips

Below, Rodney breaks down exactly how to exfoliate lips.

1. Clean and pat dry lips: Before exfoliating, it's important to ensure your lips are clean and dry. This means removing any trace of lipstick or gloss and patting them dry.
2. Exfoliate gently: Rub your exfoliant of choice onto the skin on your lips in a circular motion. "Be sure not to scrub, irritate, or break the skin," notes Rodney.
3. Moisturize: Follow up with a thin layer of lip balm to form a protective barrier.
   

How to Make a DIY Lip Scrub

The easiest way to treat chapped lips is with a ready-made product that will buff away dead skin and reveal the soft layer underneath. (Check out some of our favorites here.) But if you're the DIY type, opt for this simple lip scrub recipe that requires items you likely already have in your pantry.

Ingredients:
3 tsp. of fine, ground sugar
1/2 tsp. of jojoba oil (or another oil of your choice; Shamban prefers olive oil or grapeseed oil)
1/2 tsp. of honey
1/2 a lemon

Directions:

1. Pour the sugar into a bowl, followed by the oil of your choice.
2. Next, add the honey.
3. For flavor, add an extract (we love lemon), though Shamban prefers to leave this out in her own recipe.
4. Mix everything until the jojoba oil, honey, and lemon are evenly distributed across the sugar.
5. Scrub your lips in a circular motion for two to three minutes—you can actually lick it off since it is completely edible.

Lip Exfoliation Aftercare

In addition to applying an SPF, proper lip care means hydrating the lips with lip oil or chapstick and ensuring you don't lick the lips too often, which can enhance dryness. "After you exfoliate your lips, use a lip balm with moisturizer to ensure the newly revealed skin is protected and hydrated," advises Shamban.

As we've detailed in the past, some might mistake dehydration for dry skin. Dehydrated skin lacks water and can appear dull and tight, like chapped skin. Be sure to drink plenty of water daily and use a humidifier if necessary.

How Often Should You Exfoliate Your Lips?

"Gentle exfoliation can be performed as often as once a week," explains Rodney, who notes that overdoing it can have repercussions (more on that in a bit). And remember, exfoliation is only one step in your skincare routine. "Like the rest of your skin, your lips can get burnt from sun exposure—just like you wear sunscreen on your face every day, you should wear a lip balm with SPF 30 every day, too," says Rodney.

Shamban adds that those with active cold sores, cuts, scabs, or cracking or bleeding lips should avoid exfoliating altogether. "Any time your lips are especially irritated, red, or inflamed, you should not be exfoliating," she says.

Side Effects of Too Much Exfoliation

As with anything, moderation is key when exfoliating the lips. "Over-exfoliating the lips can lead to cracks in the skin, which may actually worsen the dryness and scaling," Rodney tells us. So don't exfoliate the lips too hard or too often. Start slowly and gently.

"If you are experiencing irritation, itching, redness, pain, or inflammation, these are all signs that you have over-exfoliated your lips," explains Shamban. Already gone too far? "Immediately apply a cold compress to calm the irritation. You can use a calming balm of Aquaphor as a spot treatment for the especially raw areas," she advises. "Then switch to a mild cleaner and moisturizer until your lips have recovered. Don't rub or dry your lips with a towel—gently pat them dry. Sleep with a lip recovery mask or some Aquaphor to help calm and heal by night."