Should You Perm Your Hair? The Pros, Cons, and Maintenance

Getting a perfect perm might sound like a tall order. But modern-day perms are a far cry from the crinkled, crimped trend of decades past. These days, perms can be fine-tuned to give you the exact waves you're looking for, be it bouncy volume (think: Jennifer Lopez) or corkscrew curls à la Emmy Rossum.

Even a "straight perm," which will semi-straighten curly or wavy hair, can be created with a perm solution. To learn more about this legendary hair technique—including which hair textures it's ideal for, styling tips, and how long it lasts—we spoke with professional hairstylists Michelle O'Connor and Shelley Saunders.

Keep scrolling to find their answers to all of our burning permed hair questions.

What Is a Perm?

"Perms are most commonly associated with wrapping straight hair on hair rollers or rods and applying a perm solution on top," says O'Connor. "Then there's what's called a digital perm, which uses temperature-controlled rods and infrared heat to create loose waves and natural volume." The perm is activated by heat to break down the natural molecular structure of your hair—this results in restructured hair that mirrors the shape of the rods.

Short for "permanent hairstyle," the perms of the '80s meant permanently straightening, curling, or waving the hair via a chemical solution. Fast forward to the present day, and perms have become a recycled hair trend that now offers a sleeker way of altering the hair's texture.

What Does the Process Entail?

Brace yourself and bring a good book because a perm can take up to two hours. "First, hair is set on rods based on the size of the curl that you desire, then a perm solution is applied over the rollers," says O'Connor. "This changes the hair structure and reshapes it to take on the curl size of the roller it's been set on."

As Saunders explains, "As soon as the solution is set, it is rinsed out, and then a neutralizer is applied to stop the perming process."

What's Different About Modern Perms?

"A modern perm is similar to a perm done years ago. The difference would be the cut and style of the hair to get an effortless wave like Sarah Jessica Parker or Jenifer Lopez," says Saunders. O'Connor echoes those thoughts, adding: "Whereas perms in the '80s were rolled on tight rods, crunchy, and resulted in a stiff, harsh appearance, the perms of today flow more naturally and appear softer."

And according to O'Connor, the rods used today are markedly different than the ones of yore. "Larger rods may be used to create beachy waves, and they can also be placed primarily at the root areas (versus the ends) to create lift and volume," she says.

How Long Does a Perm Last?

Perms can last up to six months, O'Connor tells us. However, unlike hair color, a perm won't wash out and can't be chemically reversed. A perm always has to grow out—but, thankfully, they typically grow out as natural-looking waves.

How to Maintain a Perm

When it comes to perms, maintenance is key. Treat your hair as you would if it were naturally curly (or naturally straight, depending on the case).

"Perms can definitely cause damage, as they structurally change the hair in significant ways," says O'Connor. "But it's usually not as harsh or drastic as bleaching, and having the right products that help to rebalance and fortify the hair will help tremendously." When searching for said products, "Steer clear of parabens, alcohol, and sulfates in your hair care products, as these ingredients can strip your hair of moisture," says O'Connor. Instead, opt for products that use buzzwords like replenish, moisturize, nourish, and hydrate. Below, she lays out some other noteworthy tips:

• Avoid washing or wetting a new perm for at least two days after getting it done.
• Limit the use of heat styling tools.
• Use a moisturizing shampoo or one that's specifically designated for chemically-treated hair.
• Protect hair from frizzing and tangling by pinning it up and sleeping with a satin cap.
• Use the right styling tools to work with your curls. Saunders recommends using Vodana's  Glamwave Curling Iron ($99), which comes in sizes of 1.25 inches, 1.4 inches, and 1.6 inches to help you achieve the ultimate effortless wave. "The snag-free clamp and specially coated ceramic barrel reduce heat damage and frizz, which will help your modern perm to stay for long-lasting wear," she says.
  
  

Do Perms Work on Every Hair Texture?

"Perms work on hair types ranging from straight to wavy," says O'Connor. "When referencing perms for curly or highly-textured hair, this will translate to a permanent wave or curly perm, which involves the use of a chemical called ammonium thioglycolate." She adds that, unlike perming straight hair, the process of waving textured hair involves applying the thioglycolate chemical to remove the natural curl, then rinsing it off. "The damp hair is then set in perm rods, and a waving solution (also called a reshaping solution) is applied to set the hair in its new shape. This is then rinsed off and neutralized—this is considered a double processed service." 

Because perms are generally done to give the hair more body and bounce, O'Connor notes that you'll have to adopt the principles that most naturally curly-haired folks already adhere to, like protecting your style at night and keeping moisture top of mind. "Curls, whether natural or chemically treated, need moisture," she says. "Keep those things in mind, and you'll have the hair of your dreams."

Does Hair Length Matter?

While your hair length doesn't play a role in getting a perm, the hair does need to be long enough to wrap around the rod. "To achieve a good curl, you'll need to have hair that's at least long enough to wrap around a rod two to two and a half times," advises O'Connor. "If you have layers, they won't affect whether you can get a perm, but the sizing of the rods you use may vary depending on the accommodation you need to give the assorted lengths." And just like curling your hair with a curling iron, the longer your hair, the more time it'll take to wrap around the perm rod.

Can You Perm Dyed Hair?

Virgin hair, or hair that has not been colored, makes the best candidate for a perm. But innovations in technology mean pretty much anyone can get a perm. O'Connor notes that while you can perm dyed hair, it's inadvisable to perm bleached or highlighted hair. Still, the last thing anyone wants is dry, brittle hair that breaks off in chunks, so consult your stylist if you're on the fence.

In terms of dying your hair after a perm, give it some time. "Permanent hair color shouldn't be performed immediately after a perm service," says O'Connor, noting that you should wait at least a week before dying.

How to Style Permed Hair

"The extra body you'll get from your perm will make styling a lot easier," notes O'Connor. "Your go-to style will be a diffusing on a low heat setting—this will help encourage your curls to spring up." Or, you can also do a set at night that'll vary your texture, like braiding damp hair before bed so you can wake up with loose waves in the morning.

And while you can use hot tools, it's best to keep them on a low setting—no more than 300 degrees Fahrenheit—to ensure you're not frying your hair and stripping it of moisture.